Times are hard for Le Fontenoy, the only surviving cafe in this village in north-central France which once had three, as well as a butcher's, a boulangerie, a grocer's and a restaurant. Now, as changing habits and new laws alter the residents' relationship with an erstwhile local fixture, its future is looking bleak. It is a bistro with no kitchen, a former tabac with no cigarettes, and Letouzey's coffers are as empty as his bottle of pastis. read more
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